*********** CSA E-News Volume 2 No. 8 July 1, 2003 Edition Costume Society of America http://www.costumesocietyamerica.com CONTENTS: 1. Library of Congress 2. Costumers Needed For Survey ASAP! 3. France Comes To New Orleans 4. World of Jewelry 5. Exhibitions 6. Kennedy Auction 7. Summer Theater 8. Aloha! 9. News From Members 10. Job Announcements 11. Spinners And Weavers 12. Sending In Your News! ************************* 1. LIBRARY OF CONGRESS Beverly Chico participated in the Library of Congress conference on RESOURCEFUL WOMEN: RESEARCHING AND INTERPRETING AMERICAN WOMEN,S HISTORY in Washington, D.C. in June. Beverly reports that a valuable website resource http://memory.loc.gov/ammem/awhhtml/ was unveiled giving an overview of what is available in the LC Archives on American Women. This resource information is also included in a 420-page printed volume available through LC and contains information on: the General Collections, Government Documents, Law, Rare Books, Manuscripts, Prints & Photographs, Geography & Maps, Music, Motion Pictures & Broadcasting, Folklife, and Area Studies (ethnic groups). Cost is $35.00. ***************************************** 2. COSTUMERS NEEDED FOR SURVEY ASAP! Member Christine Sparta needs assistance from costumers for a survey deadline coming up July 8! She is doing a story for STAGE DIRECTIONS magazine on costumer burnout and needs to get statistical/survey information asap! If you are a costumer and would be willing to take her survey, a quick quiz with some serious questions asked in a lighthearted way, please email Christine at mailto:csparta@aol.com with COSTUMER SURVEY in the subject line. *********************************** 3. FRANCE COMES TO NEW ORLEANS The preparation for the exhibition, JEFFERSON,S AMERICA AND NAPOLEON,S FRANCE at the New Orleans Museum of Art drew attention to Bryce Reveley, long-time CSA member of Region VI. Her company, Gentle Arts, is a textile restoration studio in New Orleans and Bryce was called on to work on Empress Josephine,s magnificent court train, one of the highlights of the exhibition, showing until August 31, 2003. Bryce and her work are featured in a recent article in the ARKANSAS DEMOCRAT-GAZETTE. To read the write-up, see http://olive.ardemgaz.com/Repository/ml.asp?Issue=ArDemocrat/2003/06/15&ID=Ar04900&Mode=H. For information about the exhibition, see http://www.noma.org/index.cfm. ********************** 4. WORLD OF JEWELRY Elyse Zorn Karlin of New Rochelle, NY has been re-elected as president of the American Society of Jewelry Historians. She is one of the lecturers at the Annual Conference this month in NYC on Antique and Period Jewelry and Gemstones, her topic: JEWELRY OF THE ARTS AND CRAFTS MOVEMENT. Elyse publishes a quarterly newsletter called ADORNMENT, THE NEWSLETTER OF JEWELRY AND RELATED ARTS which is primarily focused on jewelry but also covers some areas of historic costume and fashion. She is the author of the book JEWELRY AND METALWORK IN THE ARTS AND CRAFTS TRADITION and is currently working on a book on charm bracelets and another on jewelry of the First Ladies. The American Society of Jewelry Historians has lectures in NYC four times per year and guests are welcome. Email Elyse at mailto:ekarlin@usa.net for the schedule. See http://www.jewelryhistorians.com/ for membership info. *************** 5. EXHIBITIONS A. The exhibit QUILTED CONSTRUCTIONS: THE SPIRIT OF DESIGN, organized by the American Folk Art Museum - New York, will be showing July 4 to August 23, 2003 at the Nickle Arts Museum in Calgary, Alberta, Canada, reports Assistant Curator Julia Petrov. As the title implies, the quilt artists who have contributed to this exhibition have created their vibrant and evocative works of contemporary fibre art as interpretations of building and design. Focusing on originality, execution and artistic experimentation, fifteen contemporary quilt artists from Japan, the Netherlands, South Africa and the United States will be highlighted. For more information: http://www.ucalgary.ca/~nickle/exhibitions.html. B. Beverly Chico is the curator of the exhibition RELIGIOUS TRADITIONS THROUGH HEADWEAR for Regis University,s Dayton Memorial Library in Denver to be shown July 8 – August 29, 2003. Items from her personal collection are on display including a Tibetan Buddhist Monk,s Prayer Hat (Tsok sha); Japanese Shinto Priest,s Ceremonial Hat with Tail (Kanmuri); Turkish Islamic Dervish Taj; Bedouin Woman,s Face and Head Veils from the Egyptian Sinai; and a Yoruba Shell Crown HOUSE OF THE HEAD from Nigeria. For exhibit information: mailto:library@regis.edu or call 800 388 2366 ext. 4031. Beverly,s website: http://www.chicogroup.com/headwear.html. C. The FIDM Museum at the Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising in Los Angeles presents an exhibition, MOURNING GLORY: FASHION,S UNTIMELY DEMISE which runs from July 15 – December 31, 2003. According to curator Kevin Jones: Never before has mourning costume of the late 19th – early 20th centuries been presented at The FIDM Museum. Garments and accessories, as opposed to ritual and religion, will be the main focus including couture gowns by famed European and American designers. The exhibition will follow seven themes including, RETIRING: undress garments worn by those on their deathbed, and HALF-MOURNING: mannequins dressed in black silks trimmed with white and ablaze with jet. Contact Kevin at 213 624 1200 ext. 3367 or see the website for more information: http://www.fidm.com. D. The Baltimore City Community College,s Apparel Technology Program has joined with the Carrolltown Center in Eldersburg, Maryland to host THIRTY YEARS OF HAUTE COUTURE AT CARROLLTOWN CENTER. This free display in the shopping complex features women,s designer fashions from 1960 to 1990. The collection includes the work of Adolfo, Cardin, Galanos, Lanvin, Maxwell, Porter, Rykiel, Trigere and Chanel and is on display through August, 2003. For more information go to http://www.carrolltowncenter.com. E. The Fashion Design and Retailing Program at Framingham State College is mounting an exhibition entitled: WHAT WE WORE....WHO WE ARE: 150 YEARS AT FRAMINGHAM STATE COLLEGE. The exhibit will be open September 10 – 25, 2003 in the Mazmanian Gallery at FSC in Framingham, MA. On display will be historic garments and accessories from the FSC Costume and Textile Collection donated by FSC alumni; historic costume reproductions made by FSC design students for the 150 Sesquicentennial Pageant; and contemporary designs and illustrations created by current design students. For more information contact Rebecca Taylor mailto:rtaylor@frc.mass.edu at 508 626 4752 or Arlene Handschuch mailto:ahandsch@frc.mass.edu at 508 626 4704 or http://www.framingham.edu/fashion. F. At the Bata Shoe Museum in Toronto through October 2003, the exhibit ON CANADIAN GROUND: STORIES OF FOOTWEAR IN EARLY CANADA offers a unique glimpse into the history of shoemaking in Canada. Highlighting traditions of the Inuit and First Nations, the exhibition also features the works of rural and master shoemakers of this country,s early centers through to industrialization. Over 200 shoes and related artifacts, including kamiks, military boots, bottes sauvages and moccasins are on display. See http://www.batashoemuseum.ca for more information and news of other exhibits. ********************* 6. KENNEDY AUCTION Member Fay Knicely spotted an advertisement in the July MAINE ANTIQUES DIGEST from Hantman,s Auctioneers about an auction on Saturday July 19, 2003 which includes clothing from John F. Kennedy and Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis. A three-day preview on July 13, 16 and 17 also takes place at the auction site in Morris Plains, New Jersey. For more information: http://www.hantmans.com or mailto:hantmans@liveauctioneers.com or call 301 770 3720. See http://pages.liveauctions.ebay.com/catalogs/catalog5121.html for an illustrated catalog. ******************** 7. SUMMER THEATER A. Liz Hopper is doing design work for ALWAYS, PATSY CLINE for the Company of Fools in Hailey, Idaho at the Liberty Theater. The show will play July 2-27, 2003. See the theater,s website for exact schedule and info: http://www.companyoffools.org/ or call 208 788 6520. B. From new member Kaitlyn Kearn, age 17: I am excited to be interning at the Weston Playhouse Costume Shop in Weston, VT this summer. I am a high school student going into 12th grade and have been doing costume design and creation for our high school theater productions. HELLO DOLLY is the next production at the Weston Playhouse, playing July 3-26, 2003. See http://www.westplay.com/ for information. ********** 8. ALOHA! Linda Arthur left the University of Hawaii last Fall to take over as Chair of Apparel Merchandising Design and Textiles at Washington State University: a great program with a nice costume collection, Linda reports. Just before leaving Hawaii she had her last two books published: THE ART OF THE ALOHA SHIRT and CONTEMPORARY HAWAIIAN QUILTING: AT THE CUTTING EDGE, already in its second printing. Available only through Island Heritage Publishing Company at http://www.islandheritage.com/hawaiiana_books/reference_books.html. Linda continues: Things Hawaiian are big in fashion now. An earlier book on Hawaiian costume, ALOHA ATTIRE: HAWAIIAN DRESS IN THE TWENTIETH CENTURY, is all over Europe. In addition to documenting the history of Hawaiian costume, it is being used by Prada as inspiration for this year,s menswear. (Available through CSA Bookstore, http://costumesocietyamerica.com/Bookstore/bookstorepages/csaauthors.htm.) According to Linda, she has finished documenting Hawaiian costume, and is working on Korean costume next! ************************ 9. NEWS FROM MEMBERS A. From Leslie Littell, of the Ashbridge Studio in Michigan: I just returned from the annual conference of the Professional Association of Custom Clothiers in Las Vegas (http://www.paccprofessionals.org/conference/conference.htm.). American couture master Kenneth D. King, designer to the stars, of San Francisco was the keynote speaker. While not a winner, I had a garment that was a finalist in the annual PACC/ THREADS challenge. This year our challenge from the magazine was a reversible garment that had to have a collar, sleeves and functional closure. I designed a gown influenced from the Renaissance Revival era, gold on one side and silver on the other. Claire Schaeffer, CSA member from Region V, was presented with a lifetime achievement award at the conference. Leslie,s website: http://www.ashbridgestudio.com/. B. Margaret Koelliker has recently opened a shop called Center Stage Costumes located in Haverhill, MA. She works with leather and specializes in men,s period costuming from the 18th century and earlier. She markets her leather designs at various Renaissance Faires and some of her creations have made TV and movie appearances! Margaret will be showing her wares at the July 4th weekend Scottish Festival at Marshfield, MA and at the Maine Renaissance Faire held in Lebanon, ME from July 12-August 17, 2003. For further information, see Margaret,s website: http://www.centerstagecostumes.com. If you are interested in classes starting in November 2003 in leatherwork and men,s 17th century millinery, contact Margaret at mailto:costumes@bellatlantic.net or call 978 469 9728. C. Justine Limpus Parish, designer of shibori hand pleated fabric and clothing, has a new article in the Summer 2003 edition of BELLE ARMOIRE magazine. It is a collaborative effort between Justine and couture sewer, Kay Enyart. Available at Barnes & Noble and Borders Books or click to the CSA Website Bookstore at http://www.costumesocietyamerica.com/Bookstore/index.html for subscription. Justine,s website: http://www.home.earthlink.net/~parishjt. ************************* 10. JOB ANNOUNCEMENTS A. The American Textile History Museum is hiring a paid costume collection intern to assist with the registration, inventorying and storing of clothing and accessories for a IMLS Conservation grant project. This 3-day a week position begins mid-August 2003 and runs through May 2004. Application deadline is July 18, 2003. See the CSA Website Job Board for more details: http://www.costumesocietyamerica.com/museumpositions.html or contact Curator Karen Herbaugh at mailto:kherbaugh@athm.org. B. Remember to use the Job Board on the CSA Website for posting positions available and searching for candidates to fill positions. Nicole LaBouff, Job Board page manager, has just updated the listings. See http://www.costumesocietyamerica.com/jobboard.html. ************************* 11. SPINNERS AND WEAVERS Sharon Yusba Steinberg, Reference and Research Librarian at the Connecticut Historical Society, will be presenting a slide presentation as part of the fourth annual Textile History Forum in Cooperstown, New York. The Forum is August 8-9, 2003, and is co-sponsored by the New York State Historical Association and The Farmers Museum in Cooperstown. Her talk features Samantha and Zeloda Barrett, weavers and spinners from New Hartford, Connecticut (1812-1830) based on their weaving journals, diaries, and other writings. For further information, contact Rabbit Goody at mailto:rabbitg@albany.net or see http://www.rabbitgoody.com/2003%20Papers.htm. **************************** 12 . SENDING IN YOUR NEWS! CSA has several venues for announcing your news of exhibitions and events. To be sure your news gets posted, please send accordingly: For CSA NEWS: csanews@costumesocietyamerica.com For CSA E-NEWS: cpowell@corneliapowell.com For the CSA Website Events Calendar: calendar@costumesocietyamerica.com ************************************ Watch for more news in the July 15th edition!