CSA E-News
Volume 3 No. 1
JANUARY 2004 Edition
Costume Society of America
http://www.costumesocietyamerica.com

CONTENTS:

1.  CSA Founder to Retire
2.  American Life Symposium in Phoenix
3.  Houston Student Wins Top Prize in Paris
4.  Requests From Members
5.  Entry Deadlines Coming Up
6.  January Dye Workshop at PCPA
7.  Website Updates & Additions
8.  More Mongol Tours to China
9.  News From Members
10. Details of "Star Wars" Designer Revealed
11. Weaving and Design in Norway
12. Western Region V Activities
13. Draped in Dragons

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1. CSA FOUNDER TO RETIRE

ELIZABETH ANN COLEMAN is taking early retirement from the
Museum of Fine Arts, Boston. Her work will be recognized in
the field and for the institution by becoming Curator
Emerita. Her title was: David and Roberta Logie Curator and
Department Head, Department of Textile and Fashion Arts. CSA
Member PAM A. PARMAL will be taking her position. ANN was a
founding member of CSA and served the organization as
president, historian, and member of the Board of Directors
for many years. She was in the first class of CSA Fellows in
1991. ANN will serve as consultant on several projects for
the museum. Kudos for ANN!

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2. AMERICAN LIFE SYMPOSIUM IN PHOENIX

The Phoenix Art Museum is presenting a one-day symposium on
Saturday February 7, 2004. "19th Century American Life:
Clothing, Technology and Innovation" is coordinated by
DENNITA SEWELL, the museum's Curator of Fashion Design.
DENNITA will join other CSA members who will make
presentations at the symposium: CLAUDIA KIDWELL, Curator
Emeritus of the Smithsonian Institution's American Studies
Department, presenting "A Fashionable Fit: Changing Fashion
Silhouettes, Technology and Society," and KRISTINA HAUGLAND,
Associate Curator of Costume and Textiles at the
Philadelphia Museum of Art, presenting "Revealing Garments:
A Brief History of 19th Century Underwear." Jane Greenwood,
Professor at the Yale School of Drama in the Design
Department, will present "Creating 19th Century Dress for
Contemporary Broadway Theatre Productions." At the end of
the day, there will be an opportunity to view the
exhibition, "Beauty and Style in Nineteenth Century American
Fashion" in the museum's Fashion Design Gallery.

The symposium is free, but registration is requested. To
register or for questions, please call 602-257-1880. For
those not able to attend this special event, the exhibition
is open until April 11, 2004. See the museum's website for
other exhibit information, including "American Beauty:
Painting and Sculpture from the Detroit Institute of the
Arts 1770-1920," on view until March 14, 2004.
http://www.phxart.org/

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3. HOUSTON STUDENT WINS TOP PRIZE IN PARIS

Metal and semi-precious jewels combined to bring the top
U.S. accessory prize in Paris to Alexander Chapman, a
fashion design student at Houston Community College. Chapman
was among 15 U.S. finalists who competed in the 21st
"International Young Designers Fashion Competition" in
December. Chapman received a cash prize of 450 Euros or
about $550 at current exchange rates. KAY KING, chair of the
Fashion Design program at HCC, described Chapman's design as
a breastplate of scrolled red aluminum tubing wrapped with
tiny wires holding amethyst and carnelian chips that
resemble tiny flowers and berries. The breastplate extends
to an arch framing the face. After the competition in Paris,
fashion design legend Pierre Cardin, one of the judges,
congratulated Chapman on his entry and commented, "I like
that jacket you're wearing, too." A video and sketches of
the US finalists' entries can be viewed on the website:
http://www.af-competition.com

KAY KING reports that the only other winner from the U.S.
was in the fashion category -- Kim Moore from the University
of Delaware.  Her instructor is Jo Kallal and neither are
CSA members. Perhaps we should send membership brochures to
them with an invitation to join CSA! Congratulations to Kim.

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4. REQUESTS FROM MEMBERS

A. MOURNING RESEARCH: KELLY SCHOTT, CSA member employed with
the Cedar Falls Historical Society in Iowa as Education
Coordinator and "jack of all trades." KELLY'S request: "I am
working on a thesis, '19th Century Mourning Customs,' along
with a year-long exhibit at the Society's Victorian home,
'Victorian Celebration of Death.' I am seeking information
on dress styles and what was worn at funerals and customs of
1840-1890 mourning." KELLY can be reached at
mailto:Kschott@cfu.net

B. THESIS RESEARCH: KATIE NETHERTON, a member of CSA and a
graduate student in NYU's Costume Studies program, requests
assistance with her thesis topic on Native American
influences (mostly from Southwestern tribes) on American
clothes between World Wars I and II. If anyone has
information about this subject, or knows of specific
garments or textiles which show this influence, please email
KATIE at mailto:kan225@nyu.edu

C. SELLING SCHIAPARELLI FORMS: KRISTINA HAUGLAND of the
Philadelphia Museum of Art announces that they are selling
some of the costume forms from the Schiaparelli exhibition
closing this month. She informs us, "Only nine of the
custom-made translucent, fiberglass, mid-hip length blouse
forms are left, priced at $250 each -- a significant
savings!" For more information, contact KRISTINA at
mailto:KHaugland@philamuseum.org

D. DESPERATE: This from JANE FARRELL-BECK: "I am desperately
seeking an extant example of Model Company's "Scanties" -- a
combination garment marketed in the late 1920s and 1930s.
Please contact me at mailto:jfarrell@iastate.edu or
515-292-8302 if you have such a garment in your collection."

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5. ENTRY DEADLINES COMING UP

January 15: Deadline for entries for the Richard Martin
Award for Excellence in the Exhibition of Costume; Margaret
Spicer, chair. February 28: Deadline for entries for the
Grant to Support Costume in Small Museums; Kristina
Haugland, chair.

For both entries, contact the National Office at
mailto:national.office@costumesocietyamerica.com

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6. JANUARY DYE WORKSHOP AT PCPA

ROBIN NEWELL, Costume Shop Manager at the Pacific
Conservatory of the Performing Arts (PCPA) at Allan Hancock
College in Santa Maria, CA, sends a reminder that
reservations are still available for the Dye Workshop at
PCPA on January 16-19. The second in a series of Master
Classes for Professionals workshop, "Modern and Traditional
Dyeing Techniques," will be taught by Deb Dryden and Debbie
MacCrea. For more information contact Michael Dempsey,
Conservatory Director/Technical Theatre Training, at
805-928-7731 ext.4118 or mailto:directoroftech@pcpa.org or
see http://www.pcpa.org

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7. WEBSITE UPDATES & ADDITIONS

A. WEBSITE PUBLICATIONS: From KATHI MARTIN, CSA VP for
Technology: "I am pleased to announce the appointment of
CATHY CERNEY as our new 'Publications Screen Manager' for
the CSA Website. She is currently an Adjunct Instructor in
Fashion Design at Solano Community College in Suisun, CA.
CATHY has been in service to CSA in other capacities and has
a resume that is a perfect match to the Website job. She has
been published many times, including in 'Dress.' Her
background as an educator and researcher and her work in
compiling bibliographies make her a valuable asset to the
CSA web team." Thanks, CATHY!

B. NEW DESIGN: KATHI MARTIN also reminds us to take a look
at the CSA Website -- its new design is already in progress.
Many thanks to KATHI and Team for all you are doing for this
vital tool of the organization! See
http://www.costumesocietyamerica.com/

C. BOOKSTORE UPDATES: See the CSA Amazon.com Bookstore for
updates: "Top Ten Bestseller List" and the review of a CSA
favorite "Book of the Month" by prolific author Elizabeth
Wayland Barber.
See http://www.costumesocietyamerica.com/Bookstore/index.html

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8. MORE MONGOL TOURS TO CHINA

RUSS OQUIST, CSA Member and president of the Mongol Global
Tour Company, announces their 2004 Classic China Costume
Tours. These 16-day tours are to include the key sites in
China: the Great Wall, Forbidden City, Hutongs, the Terra
Cotta Soldiers, the Li Jiang Cruise, the Bund, the Yu Yuan
Gardens and much more. The tour also offers many exciting
costume and drama related experiences and sites: the Beijing
Opera University, the Qing Dynasty jewelry, the Tang Dynasty
Show and Costume Shop, the Chinese Minorities Show and
Costume Shop, a private Lotus Shoe Museum, the Drama History
Museum, the Embroidery Institute, and a silk factory. RUSS
adds: "We are offering three tour dates as we are limiting
the size of the tour to a maximum of 20 participants; we
will have optional Tibet and Yangtze River extensions. The
three 2004 tour dates are June 6 - 21, June 26 - July 11 and
July 17 - Aug 1. We intend that these tours will be as well
received and enjoyed as Mongol's 2002 tour that was in
conjunction with CSA. If you love fabric, costumes and
textiles, this tour will give you 'up close' experiences
which you will love." For more information, call
714-220-2579 or see http://www.mongolglobaltours.com

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9. NEWS FROM MEMBERS

A. BIRTHDAY AT COLONIAL WILLIAMSBURG: This January 25th is
the 50th Anniversary of the re-opening of the Margaret
Hunter Millinery Shop on Duke of Gloucester Street at
Colonial Williamsburg. Today the shop preserves and
practices the 18th century trades of Millinery and Mantua
Making. Throughout the year, the shop staff -- supervisor
JANEA WHITACRE, journeywoman DORIS WARREN, and apprentice
Brooke Barrows -- will be planning a variety of
commemorative events including making an 18th Century
gown-in-a-day, possibly one dripping in gold. See other CWF
news at http://www.history.org

B. COLORADO LANDSCAPES: DAVID NEWELL, Director of Design and
Production at the Colorado Historical Society in Denver,
opened two exhibitions in December. Although no costumes,
one of the exhibitions, "Vance Kirkland: A Colorado
Painter's Life," was an opportunity to show off DAVID'S
expansive artistic eye for color and design. He used vivid
and luscious colors, along with period furniture and
textiles, to highlight the work of the artist and the
richness of the Western Landscape. The exhibition runs
through April 2004. For more info, see
http://www.coloradohistory.org/exhibits/exhibits.htm

C. TAILOR TRADE: MARK HUTTER, tailor in the Department of
Historic Trades at Colonial Williamsburg, is pleased to
announce that early in the new year the position of
Apprentice Tailor will be posted. It is a full-time position
with benefits. The apprentice will learn, demonstrate, and
interpret the arts and mysteries of the 18th Century
Tailor's trade in a structured seven-year curriculum. A new
tailor shop will also open during 2004. There will be
abundant opportunities for research in the history of the
trade, its practitioners, practices, and products. For more
information, contact MARK at mailto:mhutter@cwf.org

D. GREETINGS ARE WELCOME: MARY KEFGEN, a founder of CSA
Region V, Professor Emeritus of California State University,
Long Beach -- and great teacher to many CSA members -- has
suffered a head injury which led to brain surgery in
December.  MARY is resting at her home now and anticipates a
full recovery. Recently she has been a faithful volunteer in
the Costume and Textile Department of Los Angeles County
Museum of Art and the Bead Society. PHYLLIS SPECHT tells us
that "being a patient is very hard for this very active
lady. Notes, cards and telephone calls will be most
welcome." Her address is: 4015 Massachusetts, Long Beach, CA
90814. Phone: 562-439-0093

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10. DETAILS OF "STAR WARS" DESIGNER REVEALED

Iain McCaig, Concept Designer for "Star Wars: Episodes I, II
and III," will present the keynote address at the 30th annual
CSA Symposium in Houston on May 26, 2004. The Houston
Symposium Planning Committee invites you to join McCaig as
he explains and shows his illustrations of the character and
costume images he created for such Star Wars icons as Queen
Amidala, Darth Maul and Anakin Skywalker. His designs began
the creative process for these films even before the
scripts were written. He has finished his design work on
"Episode III," scheduled to be released in May 2005. An
internationally known designer, McCaig's other principal
design credits include Francis Ford Coppola's "Pinocchio"
and Steven Spielberg's "Hook," plus "Terminator II," "Star
Trek VI," "Dinotopia," "Sesame Street" and "The Young
Indiana Jones Chronicles." He was recently approached to
work on the next "Harry Potter" film.

An internet search of "Iain McCaig" produces over 100
articles about this multi-talented artist. KAY KING, Houston
Symposium Co-coordinator, adds: "For our conference on 20th
Century Design, CSA is proud to bring you the current
concept/character/costume designer of 'Star Wars,' one of
the 20th century's most legendary film series."

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11. WEAVING AND DESIGN IN NORWAY

CSA member CAROL COLBURN, together with two Norwegian Master
Weavers, are offering a two week course in Telemark, Norway
from May 22 - June 5, 2004. Each participant will weave
"vadmel" cloth which will be custom designed for unique
garments inspired by Norwegian traditions. The old technique
of turning your hand-woven fabric into vadmel cloth will be
done at a reconstructed outdoor fulling mill run by a water
wheel. The course will be conducted in English. Your hosts
in Norway are Ingebjorg Vaagen, Master Weaver and Husflids
Consultant for Telemark, Norway, and Eli Vesaas, Master
Weaver and Board President at the Mjonoy Handcraft and
Cultural Center. Course location at the Vesaas Farm and the
Mjonoy Handcraft and Cultural Center is in the community of
Vinje in Telemark, Amot, Norway which is beautifully
situated at about 550 meters above sea level with a magical
view of the mountains. Registration for the course is
available on a non-credit basis or for college credit
through the University of Northern Iowa. This is a small,
very specialized course and a wonderful experience for
weavers interested in traditional techniques applied to
contemporary ideas in garment design.

For further information, contact CAROL at 319-273-2390 or
mailto:carol.colburn@uni.edu. A website with photos,
registration information and U.S. and Norwegian links is
maintained by Wendy Sundquist, a participant in the 2002
course. See http://www.wendyjsundquist.com/Vadmel

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12. REGION V ACTIVITIES

SUE STANLEY, president of CSA Region V, reports a list of
activities for the Western region coming up in early 2004.
Contact SUE for more details at mailto:stanleym@csulb.edu
January 17-18: Spring Board Meeting in Seal Beach, CA.
February 21: CSA-V Regional Meeting at the Los Angeles
County Museum of Art to view three exhibitions:  "Erte/Opera
& Ballets Russes/Dance: Theater Costumes in LACMA's
Collection"; "The Ardabil Carpet: A Masterpiece Conserved";
and "Luxury of Textiles East and West: Dress and Identity."
The day will include curators' walkthroughs of the three
exhibitions and a presentation by a textile conservator.
April 17: CSA-V Regional Meeting in Petaluma, CA.  The
meeting will focus on "The Business of Vintage" and include
a panel discussion, view of the current exhibitions at the
Petaluma History Museum, and a walking tour of Historic
Petaluma.  In addition, the CSA-V Board will hold its final
meeting for the 2003-2004 year.

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13. DRAPED IN DRAGONS

"Draped in Dragons: Chinese Court Costumes" opened in
December at the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, in the Loring
Gallery. The exhibition of elaborate robes that give a
glimpse of life in the Imperial Chinese court will run
through May 2, 2004. Curator of Textile and Fashion Arts,
PAMELA A. PARMAL, says that this exhibition, primarily drawn
from the Museum's collection and supplemented with key loans
from local collectors, uses examples of court dress,
furniture, portraits, accessories, and historic photos to
explore the role and evolution of costume within China's
court and society.

The dragon was considered the king of animals in Chinese
culture and the symbol was often incorporated into lavish
costumes brocaded and embroidered with silk and
gold-metallic yarns. The jifu, or dragon robe as it became
known in the West, was the most common type of dress worn by
Chinese court members and officials during the Qing dynasty
(1644-1911).

See website for more info:
http://www.mfa.org/exhibitions/draped_in_dragons.html