Dialogues on Dress: Cora Harrington

February 28, 2025

This edition of Dialogues on Dress features Cora Harrington. From her tenure as The Lingerie Addict to her return to studies at FIT's Fashion and Textiles program, Harrington exemplifies lifelong learning and passion for all the varied facets of fashion.


The history of dress and the future of fashion act in dialogue, always interfacing to inform our present moment. The Costume Society of America’s diverse members exemplify this reality like no other; through the constant connections across time and disciplines they draw, our membership of costume curators, designers, artists, and so much more embody fashion’s ubiquitous presence - and dress’ daily power to teach us all something new.

 

We hope you will join us for CSA’s new Dialogues on Dress series, interviews now available monthly in our e-News and website.

 

Interested in getting in touch? Email  enews@costumesocietyamerica.com


Images clockwise from upper left: press tour and opening day of the exhibit; Cora’s book, In Intimate Detail; Cora at a lingerie trade show, where she curated a gallery of independent designers and hosted a book signing; a page from the book. Photos courtesy of Cora Harrington.


Dialogues on Dress: Cora Harrington


While currently in her second year at FIT’s Fashion and Textile Studies Master’s Program, Cora Harrington may already be a household name for you. From 2008 - 2022, Cora was otherwise known as The Lingerie Addict, an alias so recognizable that The New York Times reported on its end, and her book, In Intimate Detail, was born of it. While her background in Sociology and Anthropology as an undergraduate no doubt provided solid underpinnings (just like lingerie to an ensemble, as Cora reminded me) for a foundational approach to lingerie in a sociological context, Cora is self-taught. Her beginnings in dress were guided by genuine curiosity, a desire for a community of like-minded learners, and generous industry professionals. Just hearing its origin story will likely make you nostalgic for the time of “free information from passionate people” in the blogosphere's early years, or perhaps its sentiment will herald a new future for fashion. One that returns to thoughtful, long form content, reflecting our collective desire to learn and broaden our knowledge, something that Cora is a particular proponent of. From her early career with crisis clients at a nonprofit, to her tenure as The Lingerie Addict, to just this week writing for FIT Museum & Graduate Program’s All That Glitters… exhibition, Cora exemplifies multidisciplinary, lifelong learning and a passion for all the varied facets of fashion.

 

Read our conversation below. This interview has been edited and condensed for clarity. 


Please paint a brief sketch of your background, personal & professional.

 

I grew up in central Georgia, definitely a southern girl. My first career was in the nonprofit industry. I started my site on a lark, the first iteration called Stockings Addict - I was really into tights and hosiery. It was a way to decompress; my job was so serious, but stockings, not so much. This was when pinup photography had a resurgance and burlesque was taking off, so naturally my interest grew beyond hosiery and I started talking more about intimate apparel in general [in the early 2010s]. I found there were people who wanted a site that discussed lingerie in a way that wasn’t about sex or eroticism. Somewhat unexpectedly, I found my niche here, and became a lot more interested in the technical, cultural, and historical aspects of intimate apparel. Things like what a certain bra shape said about the time we were living in. I ran The Lingerie Addict from 2008-2022, wrote a book, and now I’m going back to school to learn more about fashion in a formal setting for the first time. It’s been a gift to be able to go back to school at this time in my life.

 

What was the experience of building your blog and public presence like?

 

I think so much about how information was in a lot of ways easier to find then… if you remember those early iterations of blogging, there was so much free information out there and forums for people passionate about these micro niches. I often wish I had saved more from that time, especially as Google has made it almost impossible to organically discover things like that anymore. There has always been a repository of self-taught scholars and those doing work outside of formal settings, and their work should be just as respected. I think as more people grow tired of social media and algorithms dictating what they see, tired of the general noise, folks are looking to just read cool stuff again! But how do you discover things organically now? [Something like Substack] is great, but it still is siloed. Looking back, so much of [building the Lingerie Addict] was impromptu and without strategy. I wasn’t originally thinking about building a ‘brand.’ But what I tried to do on all of my platforms was provide a space for learning and exploration. I created a space on Facebook that was a body snark-free zone, allowing for people to approach the topic of lingerie without the baggage that can come with it. The blog and brand were really born authentically from that desire to create this kind of space.


I would love to hear how you would characterize your relationship to dress over the years. How has fashion influenced your work as well as personal journey?

 

For so long, what I wore was so essential to my public face; it’s been interesting these past couple years in graduate school to not have that component when I move through the world. I don’t think of myself as a brand anymore, so my thoughts around dress over the last few years have shifted away from my personal style to dress as a study. It’s funny because [FIT] is a fashion school, but there is zero judgement around what you wear, perhaps because it’s such an intensive program.

 

How have your graduate studies influenced your trajectory or interests in the field of fashion?

 

I think I hit the ceiling on what I could learn on my own before I went back to school. You can be self-taught, but at a certain point you need outside professionals to learn from. The educators at FIT think about and treat their students like future colleagues - it is an extremely collaborative environment.

 

My thesis, centered around fairtyales in fashion using the lens of standpoint theory, explores how things would have been interpreted at different points in history. Stories have different meanings depending on when you are hearing them. How do we get people to understand things that they’ve already heard before differently? That’s something I’m getting to explore a lot in my graduate studies.

 

I love the dual curation and conservation focus of the program - you have to take intro level classes in both. There’s a science component, you all get basic lab work and training! Everyone knows basic textile repair, how to analyze fibers microscopically, how to dress mannequins, etc. Every graduating class puts on an exhibition - from pitching the concept, to curating, and beyond. This year’s exhibition has both an in-person and online component, and for the first time it’s using garments from the study collection. My role was as a writer; the challenge, but also excitement, around it is how do you take all the stories and history behind one garment and condense it to just 5o words? My favorite description I wrote was for a velvet Oscar de la Renta gown with jeweled cuffs.

 

[All that Glitters… is on view at the FIT Museum from February 26 - March 23, 2025]


~ The challenge, but also excitement, around it is how do you take all the stories and history behind one garment and condense it to just 50 words? ~

 

As those in creative industries will relate to, juggling many projects at once comes with the territory of this work. How do you stay balanced, and how do you stay inspired?

 

These last few years, I’ve had to re-learn how to learn. Going back to school has a ramp up period. Staying balanced is something I’m absolutely still negotiating. One direction will lead to another, and priorities arae always changing. Things are getting done, because they have to, but I’m still figuring it out!

 

Favorite fashion fact, or piece of dress - lingerie or otherwise!

 

I do a lot of research into the history of the bra, understanding underpinnings is essential to understanding outwear. We see examples of bras in sculptures and mosaics from antiquity; there’s the famous one of athletes wearing bandeaus, but there are other examples with a huge variety of this type of garment, even though there’s this idea that bras are a newer invention. And if you knew that, would that change how you see these sculptures or visual touchpoints?

 

Over the next five years, how do you see your work evolving? Tell me about a dream project, a vision, or general directional mood…

 

I would love to write more books. A great thing about social media is the democratization of fashion, but unfortunately a downside is less room for in-depth research. A lot of extensive and interesting research, by necessity, can only be found in books. I would like to contribute to that body of knowledge, there are always more books from different perspectives to be written.

I would also love to do more work curating an exhibit. I’m hoping to partner with The Underpinnings Museum in the UK. It’s an exclusively online museum, and the Director is an excellent example of someone who is outside of academia but intensely knowledgeable, bringing something to the world of fashion that hasn’t been done before and fulfilling a niche outside of traditional channels.

 

What does the future of fashion look like to you?

 

Such a complicated question… fashion will always be relevant, that’s a given, but I could not have predicted where we are now. But I do hope to see a return to more thoughtful, more long-form content. Right now, there is a constant churn and spectacle, so that by the time you’ve formulated a thought it’s old news. This is really to the detriment of all fashion. I hope we see a slowing down in the way we share and digest in the next few years.

 

Final thoughts?

 

It’s never too late to go back to school. And I will always reinforce that there are so many different ways to acquire knowledge. There are people doing really amazing work outside of academic spaces, so don’t discount their knowledge.

 

~ Right now, there is a constant churn and spectacle, so that by the time you’ve formulated a thought it’s old news. This is really to the detriment of all fashion. I hope we see a slowing down in the way we share and digest in the next few years. ~

 

 

Thank you so much to Cora Harrington for having this conversation with me! I hope you will check out her work, and make a visit to see All that Glitters… this month.


~Madison Brito Taylor



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Cue the applause— Costume Society of America’s 2025 Symposium was a blockbuster success!
June 11, 2025
After thorough deliberation by our Membership Dues Taskforce and approval by the Board of Directors, Costume Society of America has established the following updated membership rates: Standard Membership: $130 (previously $95) Student Membership: $65 (50% reduction from standard rate) Emerging/Retired/Emeritus: $105 (approximately 20% reduction) CSA Patron (covers the discount for one Emerging or Retired/Emeritus membership): $155 CSA Champion (covers one student membership): $195 Museum/Association: $260 (includes 2 memberships) Business Associate: $380 (includes 2 memberships plus $200 value in promotion to CSA members) These rates reflect both the actual cost of providing member benefits ($125 per member) and adjustments for inflation since our last dues increase in 2012. The new structure maintains our commitment to accessibility through discounted rates for students, emerging professionals, and retired members. Implementation Timeline: The new membership rates will take effect on July 1 st Membership renewal dates will still operate on a rolling basis Members with renewals due before the July 1 st implementation will be processed at the current rates Your Membership Value: Your CSA membership continues to provide exceptional value, including: Access to our professional network Discounted registration for our annual symposium and regional events Subscriptions to Dress and Fashion Theory Professional development and grant opportunities Free access to popular webinars like Dress & Drinks and Conversations on Dress Looking Forward: The Board has committed to establishing a regular review cycle for membership dues every [3-5] years to avoid substantial increases in the future. This approach will allow for smaller, more predictable adjustments that keep pace with inflation and operational costs. Frequently Asked Questions: Q: Why is such a significant increase necessary? A: Our dues have remained unchanged since 2012, while the cost of operations has steadily increased. Rather than gradually adjusting rates over time, we've had to make a larger correction now to ensure financial sustainability. Q: What about regional subsidies for membership? A: The taskforce has recommended that regional leadership explore alternative ways to support members through scholarships, free event registrations, travel funds, and other programs rather than membership subsidies, which have been unevenly available across regions. Q: How was the new rate determined? A: The taskforce considered several factors: the actual cost per member ($125), inflation since 2012 (which would make the equivalent rate approximately $133), and the need to balance organizational financial health with member accessibility. Q: What if I can't afford the new rate? A: Those for whom the rise in member fees will cause a financial hardship can apply for a subsidy that will allow them to maintain their current fee level for one year. This will involve filling out a short form stating their need for a subsidy; we will not ask for any details about that need. Renewing members must complete the form and receive instructions before the membership is renewed; subsidies will not be provided after a membership has been renewed. If you have additional questions or concerns, please contact Vice President for Internal Affairs Katie Baker Jones at kathryn.jones@mail.wvu.edu . We value your feedback and are committed to addressing members' needs. Thank you for your continued support and understanding as we take this necessary step to ensure CSA's financial health and continued service to our community.
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