Renewing Ideas, Practices, and Community in Charlotte: Costume Society of America’s 2026 Symposium

June 11, 2026

Costume Society of America’s 2026 Symposium:

Renewing Ideas, Practices, and Community in Charlotte 

This year’s symposium reminded us how powerful reuse, repair, and re‑envisioning can be—not only in dress, but in the ways we gather, learn, and imagine the future together. The 52nd Annual National Meeting and Symposium in Charlotte, North Carolina, brought the theme Re‑Cycles of Dress to life through dynamic scholarship, hands‑on exploration, and a community deeply committed to sustainability.

 

Over five days of tours, plenaries, research sessions, creative works, and collaborative conversations, attendees traced the many cycles that shape our field—material, cultural, historical, and personal—while forging new connections and renewing long‑standing ones.

 

The symposium began on Sunday, May 31st, with a full day of activity: the Angels Project at Historic Rosedale, two pre‑symposium tours—Costume Craft in Uptown Charlotte and Form, Function, and Fast Lanes: A Charlotte Exploration of Wearable Design—and the Board of Directors dinner.

 

Monday opened with the announcement that Mary Gibson, Ann Wass, and Leon Wiebers had offered a one-day matching challenge toward fully endowing the Creative Work Award. The first plenary session featured presentations by Isabel Toteda, the 2026 Howard Vincent Kurtz Emerging Theatre Artist Award Winner, and Dennis Wright, the 2025 Costume Design Award Winner.

 

Attendees then dove into the first round of concurrent sessions, featuring topics ranging from steampunk sustainability to nineteenth‑century dressmaking, aviation fashion, and textile recycling. The day continued with a bustling Silent Auction/Cash & Carry and Marketplace, and the evening’s Welcome, Awards Ceremony, and Keynote Panel. The keynote, Circular South: Labor, Textiles, and Sustainable Futures, brought together Ambriel Pouncy, David Sasso, and Tanjuria Willis—joined by moderator Dr. Sha’Mira Covington—for a powerful conversation on how southern textile histories, labor systems, and community‑based making shape contemporary circular economies. A lively opening reception followed.

 

Tuesday began with the Scholars’ Roundtable, Generational Practices: Approaches to Sustainability Across the Dress Discipline, followed by another rich slate of concurrent sessions. Presentations examined everything from mending practices and community textile histories to spooky fashion, modest dress, and the cultural legacies of white graduation dresses. The Creative Works Exhibition and In‑Progress Posters opened in full, showcasing an extraordinary range of artistry, and the room celebrated the news that the Creative Works Award campaign had surged past its challenge benchmark, with only $3,300 remaining of the $25,000 needed.

 

Research Presentations, Professional Development Workshops, and Panel Discussions filled the later afternoon. After the Silent Auction closed, attendees enjoyed meet‑and-greets. The evening’s highlight was the Fundraiser Event: Dinner & Design at the Charlotte Museum of History, where attendees experienced a special pop‑up exhibition of Symposium Co‑chair Margarette Joyner’s A Legacy of Elegance, whose textile works honor African‑American beauty, resilience, and inherited strength through bold prints, modern fabrics, and cowry‑shell adornments.

 

Wednesday opened with the Annual Meeting and Town Hall, giving members the opportunity to help craft our mission and vision. The morning plenary session featured presentations by Elizabeth L. Block, the 2025 Millia Davenport Publication Award Winner, and Jennifer Nieling, the 2026 CSA Entrepreneur Award Winner. Attendees then moved into the final rounds of concurrent sessions, which explored topics including non‑institutional collections, ocean‑stewardship, wearable art, pockets in dress history, textile waste colonialism, Qing dynasty wedding attire, and fashion activism. The symposium concluded with the Richard Martin Exhibition Award Winners plenary, where Dyese Matthews, Patty Edmonson, and Brian Centrone each presented their award‑winning exhibitions, followed by the final Board of Directors meeting.

 

This year’s symposium also marked a milestone with our largest group of first‑time attendees to date—over seventy—whose presence brought new perspectives and momentum to the community. Throughout the week, members connected not only in sessions but across Charlotte’s neighborhoods, sharing meals, exploring the city, and meeting for impromptu conversations and collaborations. The social and professional exchanges happening beyond the formal schedule were a reminder of how deeply collegial and supportive the CSA community continues to be.

 

We extend our sincere appreciation to our sponsors: Silver Level Sponsors Fairchild Books; Bronze Level Sponsors DittoForm LLC Michigan, Paris American Academy, University Products, and Zephyr Preservation Studio; and 2026 Angels Project sponsors University Products, Talas, Gaylord Archival, Archival Methods, and Thrivent.

 

Thanks also to our marketplace participants and advertisers: Conscious Costume, CSA Series at Kent State University Press, DittoForm LLC Michigan, Dress at Taylor and Francis, Fairchild Books, Folkwear, Fountainhead Museum, Margarette Joyner, Muro Jewelry, Paris American Academy, Treva Gilkey Designs, University Products, and Zephyr Preservation Studio, LLC.

 

Attendees also showed their individual support through sponsorships inspired by the flora of Charlotte. At the $500 Dogwood Level: Lesley Heller and Adam MacPhàrlain. At the $200, Azalea Level: Virginia Wimberley. At the $100, Camellia Level: Deborah Brothers, Judi Dawainis, and Melissa Gamble. At the $50 Hydrangea Level: Lalon Alexander, Theresa Alexander, Susan Boyd, Jennifer Brown, Patty Edmonson, Mary Gibson, Deborah Miller, Colleen Muscha, Marie Schlag, and Ann Wass. At the $25, Fern Level: Ashley Bellet, Colleen Callahan, Michaele Haynes, Mansoureh Nikookar, Barbara Parent, Constance Spotts, and Sara Wilcox. At the $10, Periwinkle Level: Heidi Cochran, Danielle Reaves, and Arlesa Shephard.

 

As we recognize the many hands and minds that shaped this year’s symposium, we extend our deepest gratitude to CSA’s Southeastern Region for their hard work in organizing such a successful event—led with exceptional vision and dedication by Symposium Co‑Chairs Margarette Joyner and Sha’Mira Covington.

 

We also thank the teams who brought each component of the program to life, including Abstracts Administrators Katie Baker Jones, Deborah Brothers, and Hali Hutchison‑Houk; Abstracts Editors Margaret Ordoñez and Danielle Reaves; Creative Works Exhibition lead Deborah Brothers and her team of Abra Flores, Hali Hutchison‑Houk, and Mackenzie Sholtz; Angels Project coordinators Margaret Ordoñez, Marie Schlag, and Leon Wiebers and volunteer coordinator Charlene Gross; First Timers Meet‑and‑Greet hosts Laura Camerlengo and Monica Sklar; Student Meet‑and‑Greet organizers Sofia Beraldo and Nallely Rangel Vázquez; Scholars’ Roundtable coordinator Emily Oertling; Tours and Fundraiser team Margarette Joyner and Shaylynn Adams; Marketplace coordinator Kim Jones; Silent Auction and Cash & Carry lead Newbie Richardson; Social Media manager Nadia Abdallah; Evaluations lead Kristian Hogans; and the many Southeastern members and friends who volunteered throughout the week.

 

We are equally grateful to CSA leadership—President Leon Wiebers, Vice President for Symposia Ann Wass, Vice President for External Relations Deborah Miller, Executive Director Kristen Miller Zohn, and Database and Member Services Administrator Kate Ahn—and extend our sincere appreciation to all the Abstracts Reviewers whose expertise shaped the program.


Abstracts of this 52nd Annual Meeting and Symposium can be downloaded on the members-only site. We want to hear from you! Whether you attended this year’s symposium or not, please give us your thoughts by clicking here. Your feedback is valuable to us as we plan for the future.

 

Next Year’s Plans

Our Northeastern Region will host the 53rd National Annual Meeting and Symposium in Burlington, Vermont, June 6 through 10, 2027. Mark your calendars!

 

Images top row left to right:

(Now Past) President Leon Wiebers celebrated with the President’s Award Winners Deborah Brothers, Theresa Alexander, and Dyese Matthews; Erin Howell Gritsch proved the Silent Auction and Cash & Carry were simply too good to resist; the Southeastern Region was in full force, including members Vice President Education & Programs Monica Sklar, CSA Fellow Patricia Hurst-Hunter, Symposium Co-chair Sha’Mira Covington, and Symposium Evaluation Coordinator Kristian Hogans; there was a full house for this year’s Scholar’s Roundtable, Generational Practices: Approaches to Sustainability Across the Dress Discipline, with Jennifer Harmon, Sara Idacavage, Katie Baker Jones, and Katrina Orsini, and moderated by Emily Oertling.

 

Images bottom row left to right:

Abra Flores worked her magic in the Re-Fabricate: Transforming Scraps into Custom Yardage workshop; fundraiser attendees gathered close to share in the joy of Margarette Joyner’s pop‑up exhibition, A Legacy of Elegance; keynote speaker David Sasso, Mark Hutter, Leon Wiebers, Tory Laitila, and Dennis Wright represented the gentlemen of CSA at the opening reception; Kim Phung Nguyen wowed attendees with her Creative Work Honor winning piece, LEGO‑Inspired Transformable Quiltwear.

 

Images courtesy of Nadia Abdallah and Monica Sklar




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This month we spoke with Laura McLaws Helms, fashion historian, writer, and collector.  The history of dress and the future of fashion act in dialogue, always interfacing to inform our present moment. The Costume Society of America’s diverse members exemplify this reality like no other; through the constant connections across time and disciplines they draw, our membership of costume curators, designers, artists, and so much more embody fashion’s ubiquitous presence—and dress’s daily power to teach us all something new. We hope you will join us for CSA’s new Dialogues on Dress series, interviews now available monthly in our e-News and here on our website. Interested in getting in touch? Email enews@costumesocietyamerica.com
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This month we spoke with Esther Marquis, Costume Designer of Apple TV's For All Mankind . The history of dress and the future of fashion act in dialogue, always interfacing to inform our present moment. The Costume Society of America’s diverse members exemplify this reality like no other; through the constant connections across time and disciplines they draw, our membership of costume curators, designers, artists, and so much more embody fashion’s ubiquitous presence—and dress’s daily power to teach us all something new. We hope you will join us for CSA’s new Dialogues on Dress series, interviews now available monthly in our e-News and here on our website. Interested in getting in touch? Email enews@costumesocietyamerica.com
By Kristen Zohn April 14, 2026
C ostume Society of America (CSA) is pleased to announce the recipients of its 2026 grants, projects, awards, and honors . "We are proud to recognize this year’s outstanding recipients whose work strengthens and advances the field of costume and dress studies. I am grateful to our committee members whose thoughtful, dedicated service makes it possible to honor and celebrate our colleagues,” says Colleen Pokorny, CSA Vice President for Awards and Honors. Nora Carleson, Vice President for Grants and Projects, adds: “I heartily thank the dedicated committee members and chairs who have volunteered their time and effort to give the many submissions for our grants and projects the attention they deserve. Likewise, thank you to all who applied this year. We know that the application process requires effort, time, and care, and we hope that you all continue to engage with CSA in the future.” All awards, grants, and projects are funded through the generosity of donors to the CSA Endowment . This year, CSA is honored to name Cynthia Cooper as the 2026 Costume Society of America Fellow. Cooper’s decades of leadership in Canadian dress history, her award‑winning exhibitions, and her extensive scholarship have shaped the field in profound ways. As noted in her nomination materials, colleagues praise her “world-class scholarship, and heartfelt dedication to our field and our organization” and her “quiet supportive brilliance which touches all those who are lucky enough to cross her path.” Cooper is also the recipient of the 2026 Millia Davenport Publication Award for Costume Balls: Dressing Up History, 1870–1927 , a richly researched and visually compelling volume accompanying her recent exhibition at the McCord Stewart Museum. CSA also proudly recognizes JLN Costume Mounting LLC, founded by Jennifer Nieling, with this year’s Entrepreneur Recognition Award. Nieling’s work exemplifies the essential role of costume mounting in exhibition practice, providing museums nationwide with specialized expertise that “brings costumes and accessories to life” while prioritizing conservation and interpretive clarity. This year’s awards also highlight CSA’s ongoing commitment to service through the 2026 Angels Project, which will take place on Sunday, May 31, at Historic Rosedale in Charlotte, North Carolina. Built in 1815 and one of the city’s oldest surviving homes, Historic Rosedale preserves the intertwined histories of the families who lived there and the enslaved and free African Americans connected to the site. CSA volunteers will assist with collections care and preservation while learning about the house, its holdings, and its historic grounds. All awardees, honorees, and grant recipients will be recognized on Monday evening, June 1, 2026, during CSA’s 52nd Annual National Meeting and Symposium in Charlotte, North Carolina. Costume Society of America Fellow Honor: Cynthia Cooper, Montreal, Quebec, Canada CSA Creative Work Honor: to be determined CSA Costume Design Award: Lorena Lopez, The Busy Bee’s Great Adventure , Adrienne Arsht Center for the Performing Arts, Miami, Florida CSA Richard Martin Exhibition Award, Large Exhibition: Superfine: Tailoring Black Style , The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Exhibition Team: Monica L. Miller, Andrew Bolton, Amanda Garfinkel, William DeGregorio, and Kai Toussaint Marcel CSA Richard Martin Exhibition Award, Small Exhibition: The Life of Kid’s Clothes , Missouri Historical Society, Exhibition Team: Adam MacPhàrlain, Abigail Sarver-Verhey, and Magdelene Linck CSA Richard Martin Exhibition Award, Student-led Exhibition: The Making of Barkcloth: Place, Gender, and Trans-Local Community , Cornell University, Student Curator: Iris Yiqun Luo, Advisors: Catherine Kueffer Blumenkamp, and Denise Nicole Green Millia Davenport Publication Award: Costume Balls: Dressing Up History, 1870-1927 by Cynthia Cooper (published by the McCord Stewart Museum, Montreal, Quebec, Canada) CSA Entrepreneur Recognition Award: JLN Costume Mounting LLC, Jennifer Nieling CSA Howard Vincent Kurtz Emerging Theatre Artist Award: Isabel Toteda, 12 Angry Jurors , University of California, Irvine Betty Kirke Excellence in Research Award: Anika Kozlowski for Creative Work titled Re-Assembled: The Paper Doll Coat — A Modular No-Sew Coat from Textile Waste Scholars’ Roundtable: Generational Practices: Approaches to Sustainability Across the Dress Discipline ; Jennifer Harmon, University of Wyoming; Sara Idacavage, Southern Methodist University; Katie Baker Jones, West Virginia University; Katrina Orsini, The GW Museum and The Textile Museum CSA Travel Research Grant: Mary Alice Casto, Accessible and Exclusive: The Home Seamstress and Vogue Couturier and Paris Originals Patterns, 1932-1965 , and Daniel James Cole, Dayak by Design: Transformations to Tradition in Western Borneo College and University Collection Care Grant: Johnson County Community College, Overland Park, Kansas CSA Small Museum Collection Care Grant: Park-McCullough House, North Bennington, Vermont CSA Dependent Care Grant: Danielle Hodgins Adele Filene Student Presenter Grants: Olivia Nash, University of Alberta, and Mansoureh (Sophie) Nikookar, University of Minnesota CSA Angels Project: Historic Rosedale, Charlotte, North Carolina Presidential Award Winner(s): announcement forthcoming Pictured above from left to right: Interior pages from the Millia Davenport Publication Award Winner Costume Balls: Dressing Up History, 1870-1927 by newly honored Fellow Cynthia Cooper (Laura Dumitriu © Musée McCord Stewart Museum); Custom mounts by JLN Costume Mounting LLC for Forces for Change: Mary McLeod Bethune and Black Women’s Activism at the National Museum of African American History and Culture; objects at Angels Project site Historic Rosedale in Charlotte, North Carolina
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